When I started it was when there was only one choice and that was technics. That’s because the rest of the turntable range were complete shite and unsuitable for beat matching/scratching. Before I got technics I made do with some Soundlab DLP1600’s when I wasn’t using my mates 1210’s.

These days there are plenty of decks to choose from. I haven’t actually used any of them apart from vestax a couple of times. So I’m not the best person to ask but I have heard that the stanton range are quite good for the money.

http://www.djstore.co.uk/cgi-bin/item.pl?item=stat60

You couldnt get on with them then? :groucho:

Mine saw hours and hours of use until we could beat match and saved up enough for technics [which are pretty dear] Using the technics after them was a doddle and like going from a mini to a top of the range car [but the aristons did severl parties and we managed ;)]

Can you go into a shop which sells decks and test drive few maybe? Or ask to try any mates decks you can or babysit a lonely set? :groucho:

you do need good belt drives – some are far better than others its very true

It does also help to have a teacher when mixing – blagging a mate to help you mix and let you use their decks is a good way to get a feel for it

If you’re looking for budget but quality without tacky price-inflating features I’d recommend looking at Citronic’s range of decks – Direct drive (essential if you’re serious about djing), with enough torque to allow you to learn the basics but not masses which I found helpful when I was learning so as to teach you to be careful and delicate with your beatmatching and cueing. They’re your basic technics clones so when/if he upgrades there won’t be a massive step in terms of getting used to design etc.

http://www.decks.co.uk/products/decks/citronic/pd1s

225quid for a pair isn’t going to break the bank and if you decide djing isn’t for you then you haven’t really thrown too much away.

There’ll be other options for beginners out there, but I’ve got experience with Citronics so it’s what I’d recommend. Whatever you do, you shouldn’t get belt drives

Or try and get a pair of second hand Technics.. try cash convertors or somewhere coz then even if u decide Djing ain’t for you, you will still be able to sell them on without losing much money as 1210’s hold their value and there is always a market for them

Once you know how much you can spend, let us know on here and what you’ve been looking at in your price range and i’m sure people on here will give you their views on em for ya..

Happy Hunting…:groucho:

I’m in the same position as Raj was above. I bought Belt drives for £70 off ebay a few years ago, and am now looking to upgrade to direct drives. My problem is that I can mix fine on the belt drives, but every time I get on directs I seem to fuck up! Its annoying as thats the only time I play out…!

Belt drives are really easy to throw around, whereas direct seem to be much stiffer, and far more sensitive. Maybe I’m just being heavy handed?

Go straight for direct drives mate deffo worth it in the long run.

Can people suggest a decent pair of direct decks and mixer that I can get myself for around the £500 mark? I’d go for some second hand technics, but really would prefer having a bit more pitch to play with (I’m used to +/- 10 atm).
raaa

That is very likely your problem mate – they are far more responsive than belt drives and need to be handled more gently to achieve the same thing

its likely that 3-4 hours of practise on a set of DD would sort this problem out for you so go and blag a shot of a mates technics or direct drives if you can [once you realise how to adjust your playing you will be fine :wink:]

started practicing on mates belt drives, found it quite hard as you had to be really sensitive or the needle would keep jumping, but once i got to grips with them i found mixing on DDs quite easy. i bought a cheap pair of newmarks (2nd hand 4 £150 with mixer). having decided to carry on mixing i will prob upgrade to technics once my bank ballance gets back in the black

Hehe well i have experience with them as well and i couldn’t be arsed retyping it.. but i did add some of my own lol…

Tends to be just the starting torque they give for example and some give tracking force

Technical Specifications for the Technics SL1200Mk2 Turntable
TURNTABLE SL-1200 Mk2
TONE ARM
GENERAL
Type – Quartz direct drive manual
Type – Universal
Power Supply – ~110-120/220-240v 50 or 60 Hz
Motor – Brushless DC motor
Effective length – 230mm
Power Consumption – 13.5 Watts
Platter – Aluminium diecast
Arm Height range – 31.8mm – 37.8mm
Dimensions (HxWxD) –
453mm x 162mm x 360mm
Platter diameter – 332mm
Overhang – 15mm
Weight – 12.5kg / 27.6lbs
Platter weight – 2kg / 4.4lbs
Effective mass – 12g without cart

Starting torque – 1.5 kg/cm
Offset angle – 22 degrees

Start speed – 0.7sec from standstill to 33 1/3rpm
Friction – <7mg lateral

Braking system – Electronic braking
Stylus pressure range – 0g – 2.5kg

Applicable cartridge
weight range – 6g – 10g
(with headweight)
– 9.5g – 13g
(with sub-weight)
– 3.5g – 6.5g

Headshell weight – 7.5g

Technical Specifications for the Citronic PD 1 MK3 Turntable
Dimensions 450 x 350 x 146mm
Power supply 230Vac, 50Hz (12W)
Weight 9.6kg Output level 1.5 – 3.6mV
Starting torque >1kg/cm
Tracking force 4g
Pitch bend ±10%

i think its stanton or kam but you can get a deck with 5kg of torque!! maybe more now. apparently this amount is more of a problem then a benifit.

i still need to get saving for my technics:hopeless: its gonna be a while methinks.